In one of those serendipitous shopping moments, I walked up to the fish counter just as they were putting out wild caught salmon. The color caught my eye immediately. I picked out a filet and bought about twice as much as we needed for dinner, knowing that it doesn’t get better than this—at least in a store. You’d have to catch it yourself.

Simple preparation, roasting in a white wine butter sauce with onions and herbs, which I learned at Bellini’s and have used for years. This time, though, a lot more butter than white wine. Decadence. Just pour a little in the bottom of the pan, lay in the fish (skin side up) and pour more over the top. Bake 20 minutes.

I had some peppers that were heading south, so I tossed them in the last of the sauce and threw them in the last eight minutes or so; an afterthought. Jai doesn’t like the skin, so I peeled it off before serving. (I’ll crisp it up later and roll it up in sushi. Nothing goes to waste!)

The spicy nose I liked so well before was still there, and made instant friends with the herbs I’d used in the sauce. Raspberry and cherry flavors were more defined than before. It’s an opulent yet elegant, refined wine with a luscious, silky mouth feel. There’s a…purity? A clarity, of flavors, that strikes my taste buds with the same significance that Johnny Marr’s guitar tone strikes my ears. I’m sure it will continue to age beautifully for a few more years—but I can’t imagine waiting any longer to enjoy it.

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