We were visiting Bergström a couple of weeks ago and were poured their awesome, watermelon-colored rosé—and told it was the last time they were going to make it. Rather than the sagniée style that's more or less prevalent, Bergström makes their rosé from a specific vineyard. (Sagniée is a French winemaking term meaning “to bleed;” the wine is siphoned off after a couple of days of skin contact.) Josh Bergström promptly presses his batch, and that whole vineyard’s production is committed to rosé. Now he wants to use the fruit for a Pinot Noir release. Alas, for us all.
I was determined to have a glass of this final release with a final release. A quick search turned up a top ten list of “bands we’d like to hear from again,” eight of which I was happy to be without, one that was arguable (Hüsker Dü—I love Bob Mould but Hüsker Dü is like his high- school-in-braces years compared to what came later), and one that was indispensible: Blood, by This Mortal Coil. It’s darker than any rosé (darker than any Tanat, for that matter), but just as cool. Actually, maybe it’s not exactly summer listening at all.
On the other hand, strawberry and grapefruit flavors are abundant in this particular rosé, which makes me think of summer, friends, and picnics in the park. So too, do the voices of Caroline Crawley, Tanya Donelly and Kim Deal. The album has quite the collection of grrrls, and oh how we loved them then. In retrospect, there was a great deal of possibility: Shelleyan Orphan’s last album had just come out (not on LP), Belly and The Breeders would break a couple of years later. Salad days, indeed.